“SELAMATA MAGAZINE, VOLUME 18, NO. 1 JANUARY – MARCH 2001”,

The romantic walled city of Harar, considered by many Muslims to be a notable holy city, is a place that really knows how to roll out the red carpet. Whatever you come for - the famous architecture, the wonderful history, the spectacular countryside, the friendly people - you will always leave with a hankering to return. I've already surrendered to it five times. And I know I'll be back for more.
  There is an indefinable atmosphere to Harar that begs deeper examination. The people, particularly the women, are all carefully and colourfully garbed. The architecture, including many government buildings, follows a deep-rooted Moorish style similar to medieval castles. Wherever you turn in the city there is history, and it runs deep.
Harar began its formal existence in 1520, when a local amir, Abu Beker Mohamed, moved his capital here from the nearby city of Dakar. His rule, however, was cut short five years later when he was murdered by Ahmed ibn lbrahim al Ghazi - better known as Ahmed Gragn or Ahmed the Left-Handed - who seized the town. Gragn's nephew and successor, Nur ibn al-Wazir Mujahid, erected strong walls around Harar, which remain one of the town's most prominent features.
For three centuries Harar remained an independent, insular and often militantly theocratic city-state. However, the town was an important trading center, which even issued its own currency.
Harar has always been renowned for its handicrafts, which include weaving, basket making and book-binding. The town is also known for its Islamic learning and scholarship.
After a brief Egyptian occupation, Menelik defeated the ruling amir in 1887, after which Harar became an integral part of the Ethiopian empire and began to open its doors to the outside world. The first ruler after Menelik's occupation was his cousin, Ras Makonnen, a progressive aristocrat and modernizer. Despite his developments, Harar was adversely affected by the construction of the Djibouti — Addis  Ababa railway at end of the 19'hh century. The line was originally planned to pass through the city but was eventually diverted to Dire Dawa. Much of Harar's trade thus moved to Dire Dawa, leaving Harar to live largely in the past.
 The first place on a visitor's itinerary is usually the old town within the walls. There are several local guides, one of whom - if you're a ferenji (foreigner) will materialise at your elbow within moments of you walking into the old town! For around 50 birr per person, they will walk you through old Harar on a customised tour. Tell them how long you have and they'll give you a tour to fit.
 Inside Harar's walls, more than 30,000 Hararis or Adaris live within a square kilometre or two. Despite the numbers, most streets aren't crowded and the atmosphere is usually very relaxed.

wandering through the narrow pathways bracketed by high whitewashed walls makes a visit here worthwhile. Special sites in Harar include the 'house" of Arthur Rimbaud, the French poet and arms dealer, the ancient mosque of Abu Beker, and the gates of the city. Rimbaud's house, which has recently been renovated, is a great two-storey affair with plenty of Indian woodwork and art deco wallpaper. It has a wonderful indoor balcony, and from the windows you can see in almost every direction over the city.

 Interior of the house in which Rimbaud was supposed to have lived. The stained glass is a unique feature

While this is styled as Rimbaud's 'house', it is also believed to have been a French school at which Rimbaud taught. Regardless of its origins, it is a fantastic building, which brings to mind the period of French ascendancy in Ethiopia. The French connection remains strong in Harar, where the language is still widely spoken. Even the pervasive ferenji is an Amharic variant of the word for 'French'.

The mosque of Sheikh Abu Beker, one of Harar's 87 mosques, reminds you of the city's strong Muslim heritage. Abu Beker's mosque is built on ancient remains, which reputedly date back over 1,000 years. It is a holy site for the Muslim population, who visit in large numbers, attended by the current descendant Sheikh.
Old Harar has seven gates, and your guide will show you them all if you give him the time. The most famous is the one you will drive through into the old city. Many of the others have been bricked in or replaced by modern roads.
Old Harar has seven gates, and your guide will show you them all if you give him the time. The most famous is the one you will drive through into the old city. Many of the others have been bricked in or replaced by modern roads.
 One gate your guide is sure to show you is the one through which the explorer, Richard Burton, passed in 1855. He was reputedly the first European to visit Harar, which was a holy city open only to Muslims. Foreigners or infidels would be executed if they were caught here. In his lively but dated account, Burton described how he dressed as an Arab and with his fluent Arabic managed to fool the Adaris for several weeks. The Adaris politely infer that his identity was known all along, but he was tolerated as an interesting ferengi. No doubt the sense of danger and derring-do that Burton incorporated into his text helped to sell the copies that would finance his later expeditions.

Among the many old sights in Harar, those worth a visit include Ras Makonnen's palace, a stately old building, and the 17'hh century Jami Mosque, which is near Rimbaud's house.
There are also two small markets in the walled town, the Christian market and the Muslim market. The latter is quite photogenic with its white buildings and colourfully dressed women selling fruit, grains, baskets and other wares. On the north side of the market is a small mosque-like structure that houses the remains of Abu Said Ali, an early Muslim religious leader. Beneath his tomb is said to be a well that will provide water for the entire town if it ever comes under siege.

The church of Mikael - Harar's largest Christian church - is also an impressive edifice. There is also an old Catholic church, run by an amiable Maltese priest, which dates from the turn of the century.
  A tour of Harar would be incomplete without touching on the daily life of Adaris. It may seem a bit disconcerting when your guide leads, apparently at random, through a gate into someone's house! But the people are always welcoming, and you will soon realize that each guide has his own well-trodden route with personal connections and tips involved.
  Adaris are justifiably proud of their houses, which are usually solid and square structures sitting in a small compound. They have a large sitting area for socializing over coffee or chat, and there are usually many colorful baskets and Chinese platters on the walls. Marriage plays an important part in these houses; there is often a rack over the front door holding valuable rugs that are the dowry for the eligible young lady in the house. A room near the entrance is kept for newlyweds, who are expected to get acquainted there for a week after their marriage. A small opening is used to pass in food and other necessities.
  Your guide will also undoubtedly take you to places that sell the famous Harar baskets and jewellery. The baskets are a bit pricey, but are very attractive; few
foreign residents ever leave without at least one! There are also tubular baskets used for covering candles, as well as beautiful silver bracelets and earrings.
  The Adari are traders, and are among the most prosperous. There are also many Amhara people in Harar, but much of the town and all of the surrounding countryside is Oromo.
   Harar will always be my favorite city. Each time I visit, I discover something new about the place, its fascinating history and friendly people. Tours of Harar can be tailored to last between a hurried 40 minutes and a leisurely three hours. •

Harar's homes are reminiscent of eastern Africa's coastal architecture. Bowls, dishes and basketwork all hang on the wall - and are all occasionally used.